Before our trip to cuba I had scouted out some routes using Google Earth. We were staying on the south coast and I had a ride planned east toward the interior that would be pretty flat and a second ride west and then north into the Escambray Mountain range.
A couple observations about cycling in Cuba in general: Safer than I expected due to the very low volume of car traffic and the fact that Cuban drivers are very aware and deferential toward cyclists. If drivers here had the same attitude toward cyclists, the roads would be much safer.
Feb 11th - Valle de los Ingenios
Started out on a Thursday Morning after assembling my bike the day before. Rolled out of the resort knowing I had to go to Trinidad and then head east on the main (only?) road out of town and that my destination was about 20k east of the city. My assumption was that I would easily be able to find my way to the main road after studying the sattelite maps in Google Earth the week before. The road from the hotel to Trinidad was mainly very good surface but a little worse as you got closer to Trinidad.
Not much car traffic, a vew buses and lots of horse-trailer taxis and bicylces. I hit Trinidad and tried to get my bearings based on my memory of the maps and the bus ride through the day before. Of course I ended up getting lost. This wouldn't be so bad but for the cobblestone streets. There are a couple main roads but most of the town is really coarse cobblestone that has to be close to 400 years old if not older.
Some Trinidad Pics:
Sign in the background "The Fatherland or Death"
Lots of these cars:
I'm sure I looked like a total fred, decked out in bike shorts, jersey and helmet on a tribike while gingerly traversing the cobbles at 5kph while I looked around. At least it was a nice way to see some of the town. I asked a couple people how to get to the main road out of town and finally was able to hit the city limits and head east. It was nice to ride the asphalt again and I was able to get up to touring speed and cruise along the roadway. Saw some interesting sights, nice flowing valleys, not much vegetation and blue sunny skys. I knew that I had close to 20k to go to get to my destination and I would be able to see it well in advance as there is a 50m lookout tower where I was heading. Riding, riding through the county, a few houses, bus shelters and guys on their horses. Finally I saw the Manaca Iznaga lookout tower in the distance and pulled in. After a climb to the top for some beautiful views and pics it was time to head down and back to the resort.
During the ride back because of the layout of the road a bus got behind me and amazingly was super patient and must have waited patiently for 5 minutes trailing me until he found a safe spot to pass. I was very impressed!
The ride back was amazing as I had the fortune of a steady tailwind all the way back.
As I got back to Trinidad I got detoured again as I was unable to take a direct line through town and to the resort. This time it wasn't so bad and now I rolled through avoiding the cobblestones and back on my way to the resort. The last 10k are the worst - flat, windy & boring. Just grass and bogs to either side of you until the last couple kilometers.
Feb 12th - La Boca
Today I thought I would just take a quick tour to La Boca, which looked like a small fishing village from the maps. Less than 10k from the resort so a good way to kill a couple hours looking around. Nice ride there as the road was good and the town was quite interesting, not what I expected. There was a very small hint of tourists but quite a few little shops on the main drag selling rum, cigars & beer. It gave off the impression of sleepy tourist town before getting 'discovered'.
Roadside beach on Ancon Peninsula
One of the nicer homes in La Boca
Beach in the town of La Boca
Feb 13th - Topes de Collantes
The big day arrives! After years of watching le Tour de France and dreaming of riding in the mountains, I would finally have my chance to see (feel!) what it is like. While not the biggest climb, Topes de Collantes is at around 720m elevation gain over around 11k. Sounds manageable. At least thats what I thought. The most difficult hill I had ever climbed before was in Milton - about 70m of elevation gain over around 650m. While its hard, its over pretty fast.
Topes de Collantes starts out with a nice warmup and then it gets crazy with about 450m of elevation gain over 4km (a little over 11% over 4kms with a few stretches that are sick). I had to walk about 4 times. My easiest gear is a 39*25 and man, was i woefully under-geared for this ride!! Since I never have the opportunity to climb, I never even really thought about my gearing until I spoke with Oscar, a worker at the hotel who took an interest in my riding and when I told him I was planning on doing Topes de Collantes, he just leaned over and looked at my cassette, then looked at me and smiled.
The steepness of some of these sections was just ridiculious. It didn't help that there was not much wind and we were getting into the high 20s now. I was really struggling, and I thought I had no shot to get to the summit and was ready to turn around and quit. Just a few moments after I was having these negative thoughts I looked up and saw a lookout point not too far ahead. I decided i would go there and then turn around and go home. I managed to make it there with a combination of riding & walking. Luckily the lookout point had a restaurant & bar and even though it hadn't yet hit 10am it was time for a beer!! After speaking with the barman, he told me that I was above 500m and the next 8km to the summit were not so bad. I decided I would go to the top at that point. As I left the bar, the road immedieatly took a turn down! I mean really down! I descended what seemed 150 meters or more, the whole time cursing knowing I would have to climb that again!! Regardless, I was able to make the rest of the ride to the summit without walking and was treated to some awesome views on the way up and lovely panormas at the top.
The return trip was pure white knuckle descending even though I was trying to keep it below 40! The roads were pretty terrible. Its either poured concrete sections with nice gaps between them or asphalt that has all kinds of waves in it that threaten to launch you off the road. It was an exciting trip back until I passed Trinidad, then those boring 10k fighting the wind to the hotel.
Pics from the day's ride:
The Cultural Centre in Topes de Collantes. Music was pumping!
I was suprised to see a pine forest near the top!
Rest up before the assault on the summit!
The climb from above
Farmstead with some veggies for sale
Made it to the top and now i'm sportin' wood for some reason!
Yeah, I don't know what the deal is here....
Lots of bees
All in all, I felt great about the riding and really enjoyed myself. I got to see parts of the country you miss from a tour bus, and do it on the cheap. Spent probably $5 over the two days of riding and kept the rubber side down with no mechanical issues.
A few days after this ride I overheard some talk in the lobby of a bicycle race. Turns out there is a tour de Cuba and one of the stages finishes at the top of Topes de Collantes! 3 Days after I rode it!!!! Dammit if I would have known that a couple days earlier!!
Anyhow, a link to coverage of that stage:
http://www.cyclingnews.com/races/vuelta-a-cuba-2-2/stage-8/resultsAnd how the pros do it!!
This climb is no joke!!
One thing though as it relates to Cozumel. The wind along the coast is just obscene. I am sure its similar in Cozumel so I am going to be prepared to many kilometers of fighting a ridiculous headwind.
